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Mexican Cooking School in San Miguel de Allende
La Cocina Mexicana con María
por Rachel Laudan
Diario “Atención, San Miguel de Allende”
San Miguel es un maravilloso lugar para vivir, pero no es exactamente renombrado por ser un centro de la cocina mexicana. Dado que yo me paso el tiempo escribiendo acerca de la comida y su historia, siempre me he sentido un tanto culpable por no estar en Puebla, Oaxaca, Michoacán o Veracruz, lugares famosos por sus tradiciones culinarias, en lugar de disfrutar de la buena vida en Guanajuato. Eso no quiere decir que no se pueda comer muy bien aquí. Yo he disfrutado de maravillosas comidas, tanto en casas particulares como en restaurantes. Pero cuando los visitantes me piden que los guíe hacia la mejor comida mexicana, me he encontrado agachando la cabeza y pidiendo que me disculpen por no vivir en uno de los santuarios de la cocina de este país.

Pero ya he dejado de estar a la defensiva. Ahora reúno a mis visitantes y les prometo que aquí, en San Miguel, tenemos a alguien que es una verdadera experta en la cocina de Oaxaca y de Michoacán, así como de muchos otros lugares. Esa alguien es María Ricaud Solórzano. María, una encantadora mujer de mediana edad, tuvo la fortuna de nacer en una familia que puede presumir de muchas generaciones de cocineros apasionados y dedicados. Desde sus primeros años ella observaba a su madre, a sus tías y a sus abuelas mientras trabajaban en la cocina. La familia de su madre hacía poco que se había mudado a la ciudad de México desde Michoacán.
     Durante 40 años, Lupe, su tía materna fue gerente del Jockey Club, uno de los clubes privados más prestigiosos de México. Para satisfacer a su exigente clientela ella hacía que la madre de María preparara los dulces tradicionales, flanes, cocadas y ensoletados, que tanto gustan a los gourmet mexicanos. El lado paterno de su familia proporcionaba la cocina oaxaqueña. El abuelo paterno, un experto panadero aficionado, preparó las delicias para la Primera Comunión de María. Su abuela operaba el comedor corporativo de la compañía Kodak Mexicana, asegurándose de que los ejecutivos disfrutaran de una excelente comida mexicana, tal y como lo harían en sus casas.

Durante una visita reciente a su casa, cualquier preocupación acerca de que sus experiencias familiares de tan altos vuelos pudieran hacer que la cocina de María resultara un tanto extravagante, pronto desapareció mientras ella nos explicaba las bases para preparar el más tradicional de los platillos mexicanos: los tamales. “El sabor y la textura de los tamales es lo que importa” indicó ella cuando uno de nosotros preguntó porqué el relleno era menos abundante que en los tamales americanos. “El relleno es sólo un pequeño regalo extra, una sorpresa para deleitar a las pupilas gustativas”. Mientras disfrutamos de su amplia variedad de tamales de chile y de dulce, incluyendo los deliciosos tamales oaxaqueños envueltos en hojas de plátano, nosotros comenzamos a ver y sentir que estábamos aprendiendo no sólo las técnicas, sino también la estética de la coina mexicana.
A pesar de lo maravillosos que son los tamales de María, éstos toman demasiado tiempo para preparar como para que yo los haga con regularidad. Así que quedé encantada con su clase acerca de las salsas, aprendiendo como hacer variaciones de cada una. Mejor aún, María nos mostró cómo, con un par de salsas en el refrigerador, podíamos preparar docenas de platillos diferentes que van desde los humildes chilaquiles hasta sopas aromáticas, cocidos y elegantes asados marinados.

Así que ya nunca más me voy na preocupar por estar limitando a mis amigos si no los envío a los grandes calores de Oaxaca en el verano o a los congestionamientos urbanos de Puebla. Ahora los llevaré a un recorrido por las viejas calales de la colonia San Antonio, en San Miguel, para aprender algo más acerca de la cocina mexicana, en la cocina de María.

Rachel Laudan, autora del libro ganador del premio Julia Child “La comida del paraíso: Explorando la herencia culinaria de Hawai” (1996), escribe acerca de la comida para publicaciones tales como Gastronómica, Scientific American y en Los Angeles Times.

 

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