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Testimoniales

Historia de la comida
Por Denis D’Amico


Yo nunca había conjuntado los conceptos de la historia y de comer... hasta mi reciente viaje a San Miguel de Allende, en las montañas del centro de México, donde palpé y comí una parte de la historia.

Cuando visito diferentes lugares, siempre me ha encantado observar las viejas iglesias y las ruinas, los museos, la alfarería, la arquitectura y el arte proveniente de épocas pasadas. Así se aprende acerca de la zona, la gente y la cultura. Y para mi gozo, durante este viaje de regresar en el tiempo más de doscientos años para preparar y saborear las comidas de México...y eso me emocionó.

Esto lo hice bajo la guía de María Ricaud, quien tiene una escuela de cocina en el piso inferior de su departamento en la Calle de la Luz, en la Colonia San Antonio, en San Miguel de Allende. María proviene de una extensa familia de la Ciudad de México en la que siempre se han preparado los alimentos a la manera tradicional. Ella se ha convertido en la depositaria de las recetas y las técnicas familiares, incluyendo algunas recetas manuscritas que datan de fines del siglo XVIII. María les enseña a sus alumnos las técnicas básicas para el uso de los chiles, las especies y otros ingredientes con, los que se preparan las salsas, adobos, pipianes y el mole, platillos en los que descansa la cocina mexicana. De ahí, María pasa a enseñar a sus alumnos la maravillosa y muy variada cocina mexicana que rara vez parece salir de México para llegar hasta las calles de los Estados Unidos.
     Dado que vivimos en Oklahoma, allí tenemos una buena cantidad de comida mexicana a nuestra disposición. La mayoría de esta comida es estilo Tex-Mex más o menos aceptable. Alguna es buena...bastante creativa y bien preparada. Pero María nos abrió una puerta a la cocina mexicana y sus salsas que francamente resultó una experiencia casi mística. Mi trabajo exige que yo viaje cada semana...he acumulado más de 1.3 millones de millas en American Airlines y también llevo a cabo más de 100 viajes al año con Southwest Airlines....¡por lo que como mucho fuera de casa! Y jamás había visto salsas tan complejas y sofisticadas como, las que aprendí con María.

Para comenzar tomé con María una clase para aprender a preparar una comida completa. Comenzamos con una sopa a base de chile, con avena y tomates mezclados y cocinados a fuego lento, para crear una formidable sopa satinada. Siguió un tradicional arroz blanco mexicano mezclado con crema y queso y cubierto con plátanos machos fritos, envuelto en hojas de plátano y cocido al vapor. Un platillo fabuloso, presentado bellamente, con el resplandeciente arroz blanco sobre las brillantes hojas verdes de plátano. Y el método de preparación del arroz fue totalmente diferente a todo lo que yo había visto antes. El arroz fue lavado, remojado en agua tibia durante 20 minutos, escurrido, secado y después frito en aceite muy caliente hasta que los granos de arroz al caer en la sartén, sonaban como “monedas cuando caen en una fuente”. Entonces el arroz se hirvió en agua (o caldo de pollo) hasta que todos los jugos desaparecieron, creando así un arroz lujosamente presentado, con cada uno de los granos separados y una textura que no se puede lograr de ninguna otra manera. Terminé mi primera sesión con un Pastel Azteca....masa de tamales, suavizada con claras de huevo batidas y yemas, rellena con rajas (tiritas de chile poblano), cebolla, ajo y jitomates y cubierta con 1/3 del “merengue” y un poco de azúcar encima para contrastar con lo picante de los chiles. ¡Quedé cautivado!
Le dije a María que yo había venido a San Miguel buscando aprender cocina mexicana. Yo soy el cocinero de la familia ­mi esposa no ha cocinado nada durante 22 años que llevamos de casados y eso ¡funciona bien para los dos! María me dijo que yo necesitaba comenzar con los chiles y las salsas y durante los siguientes 4 días eso fue exactamente lo que hicimos.

Aprender de María fue sorprendente. A través de su entusiasmo y amor genuino por las técnicas y los ingredientes, ella me mostró una parte de la historia de México. Estos métodos fueron los mismos que utilizaron su madre, su abuela y su bisabuela. María habló con respeto y hasta con reverencia, acerca de la preparación de los alimentos. Ella comentó acerca de la homogenización de la comida, cosa que está ocurriendo en México al igual que en los Estados Unidos y en el resto del mundo y de cómo se siente triste ante la aparente pérdida de estas técnicas históricas y combinaciones de ingredientes que han creado una cocina mexicana que es compleja y única.

Antes que nada nos adentramos en mi vocabulario. Yo le pregunté acerca de salsa, como la conocemos en los Estados Unidos...una salsa en trozos, a base de jitomate en su mayor parte, con frecuencia vista en su versión fresca...jitomate, cilantro, cebolla, chile jalapeño y jugo de limón, cortado todo en trozos pequeños y servido con totopos.

Yo también le pregunté acerca de un menjurje que suelo preparar con frutas frescas, tales como mango o papaya, mezcladas con jitomates, cebolla, ajo y jugo de limón y el hecho de que yo le llamo a esto salsa. María fue muy paciente y amable, como un padre que le explica a un hijo que las palabras de una canción que ha cantado desde que éste era muy chico están equivocadas...mis ideas acerca de las salsas eran completamente erróneas. Ninguna de estas preparaciones eran salsas. Íbamos a aprender lo que realmente era una salsa. Y sí lo aprendimos.

Comenzamos por conocer muchas clases de chiles secos...mulatos, anchos, guajillos, pasilla, chipotle y muchos más. Los olimos y los palpamos y después comenzamos a prepararlos en el tradicional comal, tostándolos hasta que su aroma resultaba intoxicante y la piel de éstos quedaba justo en su punto. Otros los salteamos en aceite y manteca de puerco y otros los suavizamos con jugo de naranja, a temperatura ambiente. Entonces todos fueron cocidos a fuego lento o sumergidos en agua caliente o caldo de pollo. Después de suavizarlos con alguno de los métodos anteriores, les añadimos los ingredientes...para comenzar sólo cebolla, jitomate, ajo y especies sencillas tales como mejorana, cilantro, canela, clavos, sal y pimienta negra. Algunas veces asábamos las especies pero en otras las utilizábamos tal cual. Todos estos ingredientes eran introducidos en la licuadora y convertidos en una salsa muy suave.

Pensé que ya habíamos terminado...pero no. Después de licuar los ingredientes y en algunos casos colarlos, en otros no, los llevábamos de nuevo a la estufa donde los cocinamos a fuego lento en una cazuela de barro, añadiendo sal, caldo de pollo o el agua en donde se remojaron los chiles y dejando que se consumiera la mezcla para lograr la consistencia perfecta de la salsa. Era algo mágico. Los sabores resultaban perfectos, potentes, pero no dominados por el picante, sino con un maravilloso sabor complejo. Ni una nota destacaba, sino que todos los sabores se complementaban. Ese primer día preparamos 6 salsas...cada una de ellas una variación sobre el tema central. Trabajar con María era un placer y ella nos dijo que el día siguiente iba a ser divertido cuando nos adentráramos en los adobos y pipianes.

     El siguiente día nos trajo nuevas experiencias. Las técnicas que aprendimos para las salsas ahora comenzaban a crecer. La cantidad de ingredientes y las técnicas para mezclarlos se volvieron todavía más intensos. Tostar y moler nueces, semillas y especies y después mezclar, cocinar a fuego lento y concentrar estas salsas les dio una maravillosa profundidad y sabor. Los adobos eran para marinar y cocinar a fuego lento carnes, pollos y pavos. Los pipianes resultaban increíbles, con la textura de la semilla de calabaza como el elemento base de la salsa...sabores profundos y aterciopelados, equilibrados por los chiles y jitomates, tomatillos y demás ingredientes...una vez más sin que una nota en especial sobresaliera por encima de la sinfonía de sabores dentro de nuestra boca.

Entonces llegó el día para los moles. Preparar moles parecía ser algo casi religioso. La cantidad de ingredientes es increíble...25 o 26 a lo mínimo, ya que hay muchas variaciones sobre el tema de los moles. Comenzamos de la misma manera pero utilizamos múltiples chiles y entonces añadimos muchos de los ingredientes que ya habíamos utilizado antes. Continuamos incorporando frutas secas y frescas, nueces variadas, semillas, pan blanco, chocolate, tortillas y especies. Tostamos, asamos, doramos, picamos, molimos, mezclamos y colamos todos estos ingredientes hasta que por fin llevamos a la estufa la mezcla chamanística que espesamos, probamos para ajustar los sabores y finalmente dejamos consumir a fuego lento hasta que obtuvimos lo que sólo puedo describir como la mejor salsa que jamás he probado en ninguna cocina, en ninguna parte. Este mole hace que tu cuerpo vibre...la profundidad del sabor fue maravillosa, conmovedora, prodigiosa.

La clase sobre los moles fue mi última clase con María porque nos marchábamos al día siguiente. Esa tarde preparé una cena para nuestro grupo y mostré las trece salsas que había hecho con María durante la semana. Las presenté en el orden en que fueron preparadas, desde la más sencilla, hasta los adobos, pipianes y por último el mole. Todos nosotros tomamos una cuchara y saboreamos cada una de las salsas, degustando la variedad y la intensidad de sabores. Todos estábamos impactados por la creciente complejidad de estas salsas...y al llegar a los moles, entonces había toda una sinfonía tocando dentro de nuestras bocas. Regresando a las primeras salsas, podíamos apreciar diferentes elementos, maravillosos en sí, pero mucho más sencillos y directos en sus sabores. Cada nuevo elemento añadido a los pipianes y a los moles le brinda una mayor profundidad a las salsas. Disfrutamos de pollos tiernos y carne de puerco, envueltos en tortillas fresca y bañados con las recién descubiertas salsas de México.

Y así dejé la clase de María después de haber recibido el regalo de la historia. Pero no un recorrido estéril por un museo, observando artefactos y restos de alfarería, sino el regalo de las recetas heredadas de su familia y las técnicas para cocinarlas. Me alejé sintiéndome privilegiado por haber recibido esa clase de historia, pero también obligado a pasarla a la vez a los miembros de mi familia. Mi nieto de cinco años, cocina conmigo todo el tiempo. Él recibirá de mi este regalo de la historia viviente, por lo que los conocimientos que aprendí en la cocina de María seguirán vivos y esperamos que para siempre.

Dejé San Miguel cambiado... cambiado por lo que aprendí y experimenté y que traje a casa y ahora comparto con mi familia y amigos. No puedo pensar en una mejor lección de historia. ¡Historia que le puedo servir a los demás! Esta noche cené en un restaurante de Oklahoma City (Adobe Grill), que prepara comida mexicana. El estilo de la comida es muy bueno. El chef se llama Leticia Hernández y su esposo Mario. Ella sabía que yo iba a San Miguel por lo que me preguntó acerca de nuestro viaje. Yo le mencioné su nombre y me respondió que había oído hablar de usted. ¡ Su reputación es grande!

Por Denis D’Amico
Norman, OKLAHOMA

 
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